Old Town, Damascus, with decorations on sale - we were there between the Western churches' Christmas and the later date observed by the Eastern churches.

Sweets and spices in the Souq al-Hamidiyeh.

Madhat Pasha Street/Via Recta/Straight Street - or, as the New Testament has it (in a flash of humour), 'the street which is called Straight'. It has a couple of turns & must have had in Biblical times, too.

The man being carried on his friends' shoulders had just returned from Hajj - lots of bodhrán-style drums, singing, clapping and excitement to welcome him home.

Throughout North Africa and the Middle East you get the most delicious fresh bread.

Slightly shaky photo of Hammam Nur ud-Din, Damascus - the oldest and for men. My son was shown the ropes and emerged gleaming and squeaky clean having been given the once-over with a black scouring mit. There's a sisterly atmosphere in the women's hammams. Presumably inherited from Roman times, there are cold, warm and (very) hot baths and steam rooms.

Krak des Chevaliers/Qal'at al-Hosn - a huge crusader castle overlooking the strategic 'Homs gap' near the Lebanese border. No National Trust health and safety considerations here, no railings and sheer drops everywhere, a nightmare for mothers of the adventurous but bliss for the sure-footed teenager himself.

The chapel built by the crusaders was converted to a mosque - you can see the minbar here. An inscription at the doorway in Arabic says, we were told, that the place is set aside for God, whatever religious tradition is followed.